Share this on Twitter Share this on Facebook Share this on LinkedIn Share this on Sina Weibo Share this on Wechat Share this on LinkedIn Illustration by Luis Grañena When Marjorie Yang took the stage in a grand, wood-paneled room at Hong Kong University, she was in high spirits. The 65-year-old business executive joked about being a nerd (she graduated from M.I.T. with a math degree), told stories about smoking cigarettes out of dormitory windows at boarding school, and explained to the assembled students that she had volunteered to speak first at the event because, as a rare woman among the ranks of Hong Kong tycoons, she was always fighting to make her voice heard. With 35,000 employees producing 100 million garments each year, her company, Esquel Group, is one of the world’s largest shirtmakers and a supplier for premium brands like Patagonia, Calvin Klein, and Tommy Hilfiger. A few minutes into her speech, Yang even made a quip about her nickname: “The Cotton Princess from Xinjiang.” It was September 2017, and to the international community, Xinjiang was not yet a flashpoint of human rights and forced labor Subscribe or login to read the rest. Subscribers get full access to: Exclusive longform investigative journalism, Q&As, news and analysis, and data on Chinese business elites and corporations. We publish China scoops you won't find anywhere else. A weekly curated reading list on China from David Barboza, Pulitzer Prize-winning former Shanghai correspondent for The New York Times. A daily roundup of China finance, business and economics headlines. We offer discounts for groups, institutions and students. Go to our Subscriptions page for details.